Leopard geckos are one of the most popular reptile pets in the world. They are small, colorful, and easy to care for. They belong to the family Gekkonidae, which includes over 1,000 species of geckos.
Leopard geckos are native to the arid regions of Asia and Africa, where they live in rocky crevices and burrows. They have been bred in captivity for decades, resulting in a variety of morphs and patterns.
In this guide, you will learn everything you need to know about leopard gecko characteristics, care, breeding, and health.
But if you are ready to unlock the secrets of nurturing a leopard gecko, then explore this Complete Guide Ebook to Caring for and Keeping Leopard Geckos as Pets now!
Table of Contents
Leopard Gecko Characteristics
Leopard geckos are named after their distinctive spotted markings, which resemble those of a leopard. However, they come in many different colors and patterns, such as albino, snow, tangerine, and enigma.
Leopard geckos can grow up to 10 inches long, but most are around 6 to 8 inches. They have a thick tail that stores fat and can be detached as a defense mechanism. They also have eyelids that can blink and close, unlike most geckos.
Leopard geckos are docile and friendly animals that rarely bite or scratch. They can be handled easily and enjoy being petted and held.
They are also nocturnal, meaning they are active at night and sleep during the day. They have excellent vision and can see well in the dark. They communicate with each other through vocalizations, body language, and pheromones.
Leopard Gecko Care and Habitat
Enclosure
Leopard geckos can be housed in a glass terrarium, a plastic tub, or a wooden vivarium. The minimum size for one leopard gecko is 10 gallons, but a larger tank is recommended for more space and comfort. The tank should have a secure lid to prevent escapes and ventilation holes to allow air circulation.
The substrate is the material that covers the bottom of the tank. It should be safe, clean, and comfortable for the leopard gecko.
Some good options are paper towels, reptile carpet, or tile. Avoid using sand, gravel, or wood shavings, as they can cause impaction, infection, or injury.
The tank should also have some decorations and accessories to provide hiding places, climbing areas, and visual interest for the leopard gecko.
Some examples are rocks, branches, plants, caves, and hammocks. Make sure they are stable and do not have sharp edges or loose parts.
Lighting
Leopard geckos do not need ultraviolet (UV) lighting, as they get enough vitamin D3 from their diet. However, they still need a regular day and night cycle to regulate their biological clock and behavior.
You can use a normal incandescent bulb or an LED light to provide 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness for your leopard gecko. Avoid using fluorescent or halogen bulbs, as they can produce too much heat or UV rays.
Temperature and Humidity
Leopard geckos are ectothermic, meaning they rely on external sources of heat to regulate their body temperature.
They need a temperature gradient in their tank, with a warm side and a cool side, to allow them to choose their preferred temperature.
The warm side should be between 85 to 90°F, and the cool side should be between 70 to 75°F. You can use a heat mat, a ceramic heat emitter, or a basking lamp to provide heat for the warm side. You can also use a thermometer to monitor the temperature in the tank.
Leopard geckos are adapted to dry environments, so they do not need high humidity levels in their tank. However, they still need some moisture to aid their shedding process and prevent dehydration.
The humidity level in the tank should be between 20 to 40%, and you can use a hygrometer to measure it. You can also provide a moist hide for your leopard gecko, which is a container filled with damp sphagnum moss, peat moss, or vermiculite.
The moist hide should be placed on the warm side of the tank and misted regularly to keep it moist.
Feeding
Leopard geckos are insectivorous, meaning they eat insects as their main food source. They can eat a variety of insects, such as crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and dubia roaches.
However, they should not eat insects that are too large, too hard, or too toxic for them, such as fireflies, beetles, or wild-caught insects.
The insects should be gut-loaded, which means fed with nutritious food, such as fruits, vegetables, or commercial gut-load products, before being offered to the leopard gecko.
The insects should also be dusted with calcium and vitamin supplements, such as calcium carbonate, calcium with D3, or multivitamins, to prevent nutritional deficiencies.
Leopard geckos should be fed every day or every other day, depending on their age, size, and appetite. Juveniles and hatchlings should be fed daily, while adults can be fed every two or three days.
The amount of insects should be proportional to the size of the leopard gecko's head, and they should be offered in a shallow dish or by hand.
Leopard geckos should not be overfed, as this can lead to obesity, health problems, and reduced lifespan. Leopard geckos also need access to fresh and clean water at all times.
They should have a shallow water dish that is large enough for them to drink from, but not too deep for them to drown in. The water dish should be placed on the cool side of the tank and changed daily or as needed.
Hygiene
Leopard geckos are clean animals that do not produce much waste or odor. However, they still need some basic hygiene practices to keep them healthy and happy. These include:
- Cleaning the tank and the substrate regularly, removing any feces, shed skin, or uneaten food.
- Disinfecting the tank and the accessories with a reptile-safe cleaner, such as vinegar, bleach, or F10.
- Washing your hands before and after handling your leopard gecko, to prevent the transmission of germs or parasites.
- Handling your leopard gecko gently and carefully, avoiding sudden movements, loud noises, or excessive stress.
- Checking your leopard gecko for any signs of illness or injury, such as weight loss, swelling, discharge, or wounds.
Leopard Gecko Breeding
You should only breed leopard geckos if you have enough experience, knowledge, and resources to care for the parents and the offspring.
Sexing
Before breeding leopard geckos, you need to determine their sex, as this will affect their compatibility, behavior, and housing.
Leopard geckos are sexually dimorphic, meaning they have physical differences between males and females. The main characteristics that can help you identify the sex of your leopard gecko are:
- The presence or absence of hemipenal bulges, which are two swellings at the base of the tail, near the vent. Males have prominent hemipenal bulges, while females have none or very faint ones.
- The presence or absence of preanal pores, which are small openings above the vent that secrete a waxy substance. Males have visible preanal pores, while females have none or very faint ones.
- The size and shape of the head and the body. Males tend to have larger and broader heads and bodies, while females tend to have smaller and slimmer ones.
Sexing leopard geckos can be tricky, especially for juveniles and hatchlings, as they have not developed their secondary sexual characteristics yet.
The best way to sex leopard geckos is to use a magnifying glass or a flashlight and examine their vent area carefully. You can also consult a reputable breeder or a veterinarian for confirmation.
Mating
Leopard geckos can mate at any time of the year, but they are more likely to do so during the spring and summer months when the temperature and the daylight hours are higher. To induce mating, you need to provide the following conditions for your leopard geckos:
- A healthy and mature pair of leopard geckos: preferably of the same or similar size and age. The male should be at least 10 months old and weigh at least 45 grams, while the female should be at least 12 months old and weigh at least 50 grams. The pair should also be compatible and healthy, free of any diseases or injuries.
- A separate breeding tank: where the pair can be introduced and monitored. The breeding tank should have the same conditions as the main tank, except for the decorations and accessories, which should be minimal to avoid any interference or injury during mating.
- A cooling period: where the temperature and the light are gradually lowered for a few weeks before mating. This mimics the natural winter cycle of leopard geckos and stimulates their reproductive hormones.
- A warm-up period: where the temperature and the light are gradually increased to normal levels after the cooling period. This signals the start of the breeding season and triggers the ovulation of the female.
To mate leopard geckos, you need to follow these steps:
- Place the male and the female in the breeding tank and observe their behavior. The male will usually chase, bite, and lick the female to show his interest and dominance. The female will either accept or reject the male by raising or lowering her tail. If the female is receptive, the male will mount her from behind and insert one of his hemipenes into her cloaca. The mating process can last from a few seconds to a few minutes, and it can be repeated several times.
- Remove the male from the breeding tank after mating and return him to his main tank. The female will store the sperm in her body and use it to fertilize her eggs for several months. You can mate the same pair again after a few weeks, or introduce a different male to produce different offspring.
- Provide the female with extra care and nutrition after mating, as she will need more energy and calcium to produce healthy eggs. You can increase the frequency and the amount of feeding, as well as the supplementation of calcium and vitamins. You can also offer her a nesting box, which is a container filled with moist substrate, such as vermiculite or perlite, where she can lay her eggs.
Leopard Gecko Incubation and Care for Hatchlings
Incubation
Leopard gecko eggs can be incubated in a separate incubator, or in the same tank as the female, depending on your preference and availability. The incubation conditions are as follows:
- Temperature: The temperature of the incubator or the tank should be between 80 to 90°F, and it should be stable and consistent throughout the incubation period. The temperature can also affect the sex of the hatchlings, with higher temperatures producing more males and lower temperatures producing more females. You can use a thermostat and a thermometer to control and monitor the temperature.
- Humidity: The humidity of the incubator or the tank should be between 70 to 80%, and it should be maintained by misting or adding water to the substrate. The humidity can also affect the hatching rate and the health of the eggs, with higher humidity increasing the chances of hatching and preventing dehydration, and lower humidity decreasing the chances of mold and infection. You can use a hygrometer to measure the humidity.
- Substrate: The substrate of the incubator or the tank should be moist, but not wet, and it should be able to hold its shape when squeezed. Some good options are vermiculite, perlite, or hatchrite. The substrate should be placed in a container with a lid, such as a plastic cup or a deli cup, and the eggs should be buried halfway in the substrate. The container should have some ventilation holes to allow air exchange.
- Position: The position of the eggs should be marked and maintained throughout the incubation period. The eggs should not be rotated, flipped, or moved, as this can disrupt the embryo development and cause death or deformity. You can use a pencil or a marker to draw a line or a dot on the top of the eggs to indicate their original position.
The incubation period of leopard gecko eggs can vary from 35 to 90 days, depending on the temperature, humidity, and genetics.
You can check the eggs regularly for any signs of development, such as veins, shadows, or movement, or any signs of problems, such as mold, collapse, or odor.
You can also candle the eggs, which is a method of shining a light through the eggs to see the embryo inside. However, you should be careful and gentle when handling the eggs, and avoid disturbing them too much.
Care for Hatchlings
Leopard gecko hatchlings are miniature versions of their parents, and they are fully independent and capable of eating and drinking on their own. However, they still need some special care and attention to ensure their growth and well-being.
- Housing: Leopard gecko hatchlings can be housed in the same tank as their parents, or in a separate tank, depending on your preference and availability. The housing conditions should be similar to those of the adults, except for the size and the complexity of the tank, which should be smaller and simpler to prevent stress and injury. The tank should have a secure lid, ventilation holes, a substrate, a heat source, a water dish, and a hiding place. The tank should also be cleaned and disinfected regularly, removing any feces, shed skin, or uneaten food.
- Feeding: Leopard gecko hatchlings can eat the same insects as their parents, such as crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and dubia roaches. However, they should eat smaller and softer insects, such as pinhead crickets, mini mealworms, or micro worms, to avoid choking or impaction. The insects should be gut-loaded and dusted with calcium and vitamin supplements, as the hatchlings need more nutrients for their growth and development. The hatchlings should be fed every day or every other day, depending on their appetite and size. The amount of insects should be proportional to the size of the hatchlings' head, and they should be offered in a shallow dish or by hand.
- Watering: Leopard gecko hatchlings need access to fresh and clean water at all times, as they can dehydrate easily. They should have a shallow water dish that is large enough for them to drink from, but not too deep for them to drown in. The water dish should be placed on the cool side of the tank and changed daily or as needed. You can also mist the tank or the hiding place occasionally to provide some moisture and aid their shedding process.
- Handling: Leopard gecko hatchlings can be handled gently and carefully, but not too frequently or for too long, as they can be stressed or injured easily. You should wash your hands before and after handling your hatchlings, to prevent the transmission of germs or parasites. You should also avoid sudden movements, loud noises, or excessive pressure when handling your hatchlings, and let them explore your hand or arm at their own pace. You should also return your hatchlings to their tank after handling, and give them some time to rest and recover.
Leopard Gecko Health and Common Issues
Leopard geckos are hardy and resilient animals that can live up to 20 years or more in captivity. However, they can still suffer from some health problems and issues, either due to genetic factors, environmental factors, or human factors.
Some of the most common health problems and issues that affect leopard geckos are:
- Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): This is a condition that affects the bones and the muscles of leopard geckos, causing them to become weak, brittle, and deformed. It is caused by a lack of calcium, vitamin D3, or phosphorus in the diet, or by improper lighting, temperature, or humidity in the tank. The symptoms of MBD include lethargy, weight loss, loss of appetite, tremors, spasms, fractures, and deformities. The treatment of MBD involves increasing the intake of calcium and vitamin D3 supplements, improving the lighting, temperature, and humidity conditions, and consulting a veterinarian for medication or surgery.
- Impaction: This is a condition that affects the digestive system of leopard geckos, causing them to become blocked, constipated, or unable to defecate. It is caused by ingesting indigestible or inappropriate items, such as sand, gravel, wood shavings, or large insects. The symptoms of impaction include lethargy, weight loss, loss of appetite, bloating, swelling, and pain. The treatment of impaction involves providing warm baths, gentle massages, mineral oil, or laxatives, and consulting a veterinarian for medication or surgery.
- Parasites: These are organisms that live on or in leopard geckos, causing them to become infected, infested, or diseased. They can be external or internal, and they can be transmitted by contact, ingestion, or vectors. The symptoms of parasites vary depending on the type and the severity of the infection, but they can include lethargy, weight loss, loss of appetite, diarrhea, vomiting, itching, scratching, shedding problems, and skin lesions. The treatment of parasites involves identifying the type and the source of the parasite, isolating the infected leopard gecko, and consulting a veterinarian for medication or surgery.
- Shedding Problems: These are issues that affect the skin and the scales of leopard geckos, causing them to have difficulty or failure in shedding their old skin. They are caused by low humidity, dehydration, injury, infection, or parasites. The symptoms of shedding problems include retained skin, especially on the eyes, the mouth, the toes, or the tail, which can impair the vision, the breathing, the circulation, or the movement of the leopard gecko. The treatment of shedding problems involves The treatment of shedding problems involves increasing the humidity and the hydration of the leopard gecko, providing warm baths, gentle peeling, or tweezers, and consulting a veterinarian for medication or surgery.
Additional Resources and Tips for Beginners
Leopard geckos are fascinating and rewarding pets that can bring you joy and companionship for many years. However, they also require a lot of research, preparation, and responsibility to ensure their well-being and happiness.
If you are interested in learning more about leopard gecko care, breeding, and health, you can check this Complete Guide to Caring for and Keeping Leopard Geckos as Pets, to learn the best pet care practices.
And here are some tips to help you handle and socialize your leopard gecko, and create an enriching environment for them:
- Start handling your leopard gecko gradually and gently after they have settled in their new home and have become familiar with you. Hold them in your palm or on your arm, and let them walk or crawl at their own pace. Do not squeeze, grab, or lift them by their tail, as this can cause stress or injury. Do not handle them for more than 15 minutes at a time, or when they are shedding, eating, or sleeping.
- Talk to your leopard gecko softly and calmly, and avoid making loud or sudden noises that can scare them. You can also offer them treats, such as waxworms or mealworms, to reward them for their cooperation and trust. Do not force them to interact with you or other animals, and respect their personality and preferences.
- Provide your leopard gecko with some toys, such as balls, bells, or mirrors, to stimulate their curiosity and intelligence. You can also change the layout or the decorations of their tank occasionally, to provide them with some variety and challenge. However, do not overcrowd their tank or disturb their hiding places, as this can cause stress or anxiety.
Conclusion
Leopard geckos are amazing and adorable pets that can bring you a lot of fun and satisfaction. They are easy to care for, breed, and handle, as long as you provide them with the proper conditions, diet, and hygiene.
They are also very diverse and beautiful, with many different colors and patterns to choose from. However, they are also living creatures that deserve respect, attention, and love.
Therefore, you should always do your best to ensure their well-being and happiness and learn as much as you can about their characteristics, needs, and behaviors. By doing so, you will be able to enjoy a long and rewarding relationship with your leopard gecko.
FAQs about Leopard Geckos Care
How many leopard geckos can I keep in one tank?
It depends on the size and the compatibility of the leopard geckos, but generally, one leopard gecko per 10 gallons of tank space is recommended.
What are the best insects to feed my leopard gecko?
Crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and dubia roaches are some of the best insects to feed your leopard gecko, as they are nutritious, easy to digest, and readily available.
How often should I clean my leopard gecko's tank?
You should clean your leopard gecko's tank at least once a week, removing any feces, shed skin, or uneaten food. You should also disinfect the tank and the accessories with a reptile-safe cleaner once a month.
How can I tell if my leopard gecko is male or female?
You can tell the sex of your leopard gecko by looking at their vent area, near the base of the tail. Males have prominent hemipenal bulges and preanal pores, while females have none or very faint ones.
How can I prevent my leopard gecko from getting sick or injured?
You can prevent your leopard gecko from getting sick or injured by providing them with the proper conditions, diet, and hygiene, as well as avoiding any stress, trauma, or infection. You should also check your leopard gecko regularly for any signs of illness or injury, and consult a veterinarian if needed.
Are leopard geckos easy for beginners?
Yes, leopard geckos are easy for beginners, as they are small, colorful, and easy to care for. They do not require a lot of space or equipment, and they are docile and friendly.
How do I know if my leopard gecko is happy?
You can tell if your leopard gecko is happy by observing their behavior and body language. Some signs of happiness are:
- Active and alert, exploring their tank and interacting with you
- Eating and drinking well, showing a healthy appetite and hydration
- Shedding and growing normally, indicating good health and development
- Vocalizing and wagging their tail, expressing their mood and personality
How hard is it to take care of a leopard gecko?
It is not hard to take care of a leopard gecko, as long as you provide them with the proper conditions, diet, and hygiene.
What not to do to a leopard gecko?
Some things that you should not do to a leopard gecko are:
- Use sand, gravel, or wood shavings as a substrate, as they can cause impaction, infection, or injury
- Use fluorescent or halogen bulbs as a heat source, as they can produce too much heat or UV rays
- Feed them insects that are too large, too hard, or too toxic for them, such as fireflies, beetles, or wild-caught insects
- Squeeze, grab, or lift them by their tail, as this can cause stress or injury
- Overfeed, underfeed or dehydrate them, as this can lead to obesity, health problems, and reduced lifespan.